In search of the Aye-aye on Nosy Mangabe
Page 2
Rhett Butler
April 12, 2005
Sunset over Nosy Mangabe. Photo copyright Rhett A. Butler
[continued from page 1]
I arrive on Nosy Mangabe following a few of days on the Masoala
Peninsula. The Masoala has Madagascar's largest protected tract of
rainforest and accordingly, some the highest diversity of species on
Earth. It is a beautiful area; the forest extending down to the long
white sand beaches, and just offshore lie coral reefs and breeding grounds
for humpback whales.
After setting up our tents, we spent the afternoon exploring Nosy
Mangabe and observing some of the island's other wildlife. In addition
to the nocturnal aye-aye, other lemurs on the island include
the black-and-white ruffed lemur and the white-fronted brown
lemur -- both of which are active during the day. Black-and-white
lemurs are also found on the mainland of Madagascar, as far south as
Ranomafana National Park. Strangely, despite the island's proximity
to the Masoala peninsula, black-and-white lemurs are not found there.
Instead they are replaced with the red ruffed lemur, a closely related,
but genetically distinct lemur with dark red fur. Like the aye-aye,
some mystery surrounds the black-and-white ruffed lemurs of Nosy
Mangabe. No one is sure how long these lemurs have been on the
island. Some believe they were introduced in the 1930s, but others
point to reports from British indicating their presence as far back as
the 17th century.
The forests of Nosy Mangabe are home to a spectacular array of other
animals including divergent geckos, color-shifting chameleons,
brightly-hued frogs, and a multitude of insects. Among the best-known
of the island's creatures is the Uroplatus gecko, an animal so
well-camouflaged that it disappears against the trunks of trees. It is
difficult to believe that this cryptic lizard is in the same family as
the neon green day geckos found on nearby palm trees around the
island. Due to their remarkable characteristics, both these animals
are highly sought in the pet trade. Overzealous collecting for the
international reptile market has significantly reduced populations of
some "herp" (reptile and amphibian) species in Madagascar. My local
guide Armand comments that in the past, he has seen locals collecting
reptiles and amphibians from Nosy Mangabe and protected areas on the
Masoala peninsula.
Armand has been a guide in the Masoala region for over ten years --
before the peninsula was even designated as a national park. Over the
years he has led dozens of dignitaries and world-renowned scientists
through the rainforests and coral reefs of Masoala. Guiding is a well
respected and well-paid occupation in Madagascar and for good reason
-- ecotourism is one of the great hopes for the economic development
of the country.
In Madagascar you are required to have a local guide when you enter a
protected areas. This is to ensure both your safety and enjoyment of
the surroundings as well as to provide employment opportunities for local
people. Because the country is very poor, conservation efforts have a
direct impact on local people who would otherwise use natural areas as
a resource base for their everyday livelihood. As Masoala - The Eye of the Forest puts it "Everyone
who lives on the Masoala peninsula lives directly from the use of
natural resources. Almost no one at Masoala has the option, let alone
the means, to become a lawyer, doctor, journalist, pilot, bus-driver,
secretary, mechanic or librarian, let alone to aspire to a leisurely
retirement. Average life expectancy in Madagascar is about 56 years.
Everyone's survival strategy is therefore centered in one way or
another around natural resource use." Therefore, providing economic
incentives for local people is a key to making conservation successful in Madagascar. Ecotourism may be the best way for local people to
directly benefit from protected areas while maintaining protection.
Ecotourism is indeed growing in Madagascar. According to the Bradt guide to
Madagascar around 50% of visitors to the country now visit a
protected area when they visit the country (up from 20% in 1995).
Responsibly managed ecotourism can generate substantial amounts of revenue and employ large numbers of local people without causing significant environmental damage. And because ecotourists pay to see a country's natural beauty,
local people are motivated to conserve the environment around
them. Ecotourism can help assign value to an ecosystem and most
ecotourists are willing to pay directly for preservation in the form
of park entrance fees and the hiring of local guides.
In Madagascar, local communities benefit directly from ecotourism
through their 50% share of park entrance fees (park entry fees are
divided equally between the national parks service, ANGAP,
and local communities), sales of handicrafts and "tourist items," and
employment as porters, wildlife guides, park rangers, workers in the
service force of hotels, restaurants and lodges. The guide training
programs implemented by ANGAP
helps the local community as a whole through the education of its
members. With an education and a understanding of multiple languages,
the future holds increased opportunities for Malagasy children.
Education also helps conservation efforts in a region where there is
often a lack of communication with outlying communities. In the early
days of Masoala, people in these remote areas did not know what they
could and could not do within the boundaries of the park. Lemur
hunting, illegal tree felling, and other activities continued not
necessarily out of malice towards the park but as a result of
ignorance. Today, park managers rely on radio broadcasts to reach
outer communities to explain regulations concerning the park as well
as convey both the importance and uniqueness of the Masoala. With an
understanding that the wildlife around them is found only in their
backyard and that foreigners are willing to pay unimaginable sums of
money and travel incredible distances just to see these creatures,
locals are instilled with a sense of pride in their native fauna. The
realization of the economic potential of their surroundings helps
cement the importance of maintaining a healthy forest.
Almost all pictures on this site were taken with a Konica Minolta
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